The Window to Europe

After we left Glencree it was off to Galway for a much less academic few days. We spent a day exploring Galway independently, and then boarded a ferry for Inis Mor, the largest of the Aran Islands off the Western Coast of Ireland. Aran is a Gaeltacht area and is known as "the window to Europe". It is a most beautiful place with wonderfully friendly people. We were not even off the bus to our hostel before a man was telling me all the good pubs, and explaining that one has no closing time, depending on which one of the two police officers on the island is on duty.

The next morning we were off on a marathon walk around Inis Mor which is 9 miles long and 2 miles wide. Previously I thought the Antrim Coast was the most scenic area of Ireland, but Inis Mor is now in close competition in my book. The ground on Inis Mor, and Connacht in general, is a bed of solid limestone, and there was a plethora of rock walls to nowhere all over the island. The coast is dotted with remnants of old forts and churches, some having been built, and some having been destroyed by Cromwellian invaders. The walk along the cliffs with our guide, a native of Inis Mor was certainly what people vision when they think of Ireland. Drastic cliffs and the odd cow or goat were the constant of our journey, and the sun was beating down on us, reflecting off the waves and limestone rock resulting in a bit of a sunburn (I didn't know it was possible to get a sunburn in Ireland).

We stopped for lunch in an ancient circular fort, and lounged around in the sun while our guide told us anecdotes and facts about Aran. Throughout the semester I have avoided the stereotype of the "plastic paddy", an American who has some romantic vision of Ireland, and somewhat corny feelings towards his or her ancestors, however I could avoid it no longer. I began thinking of my own ancestors from Connacht, and how they must have lived in dwellings much like this one. I thought it amazing that they, like our group had stopped for lunch and a conversation while exploring their own surroundings, maybe in a similar fort. Our guide told us about the history of Co. Galway and how his own clann, the O'Flahertys, were banished by the 12 tribes because of their ferociousness. He told us how many people from Galway have dark skin and hair and almost North African features, and similarly a tribe in North Africa has the odd red head. He spoke of vibrant clothing worn in ancient times, brought in through the ports from Spain and Greece. He also talked a lot about myths and how they can coexist alongside science. I really like this thought and have grown to love the bountiful mythology of the nation.

We spent the last night of the program in Galway and were treated to something special, courtesy of our school. The program director and assistant collected us and took us a surprise location for a final dinner. They probably could have told us where it was to be held and we would have never believed them. We pulled up in a van in front of an old castle and there was a look of disbelief all around. Upon walking through the door we were greeted as "My Lord" or "My Lady" and given a goblet of meade. It was a fun night and a great way to end the semester.

I'm currently on a bus back to Dublin to wait for my parents and Brendan, and hopefully they were able to get here in spite of the volcano. It's funny, after having a walking tour of Inis Mor filled with talk of myths and legends and meanwhile man's mighty creations are being proved useless in the face of a volcano. It is no wonder people made up stories to explain things they didn't, and still don't understand.