"Twas down the glenn one Easter morn' to a city fair rode I"

My Easter experience in Dublin could probably best be described as diverse. Easter is a very big deal in Ireland for 2 reasons, 1)it is an overwhelmingly Christian country 2) Easter is the high holiday for Irish Republicanism. In 1916 an event known as the Easter Rising took place in Dublin. A coalition of groups including the IRA and James Connolly's Irish Citizen's Army rose up against the Crown Forces in an attempt at independence. The strange thing about this rebellion being so important to Republicans is that they lost. Independence would not be won for another 5 years, but when the 16 leaders of the rebellion were rounded up and executed it changed public opinion among the Irish citizens. Most of the citizens in Ireland thought these men were simply loony romantics and wished they had never staged the rebellion. The men themselves were not militarily trained and were poets, actors, trade unionist, and Padraig Pearse, the leader was a schoolmaster. But when the British government executed them the people felt this was far too harsh a punishment. For example James Connolly who had been severely wounded in the fighting was brought to Killmainham Gaol on the day of his execution by an ambulance and since he was not well enough to stand on his own two feet he was tied to a chair, and shot by a firing squad. It was events like this that inspired the next generation of Rebels to carry on the fight and eventually gain independence. When historians look back on the events of Easter 1916 they sometimes hypothesize that the leaders knew they would not be successful, but they were staging a blood sacrifice for the cause of Irish freedom.

So back to the way my Easter was pretty diverse. I went to the Adelaide Road Church in Dublin with the Mitchells (my host family) for an Easter service. This is a Presbyterian church, and I was going more as an observer than a worshiper which made me feel a little strange. I also was excited to try my first non-transubstantiated communion, sadly there was no communion at the service (i know, bummer). It was a very different atmosphere than I was used to from Catholic mass that I have grown up with. The homily was about how the resurrection is not a parable, but rather what literally happened and the Bible is proof that it happened. I sort of expected that message because of Presbyterianism's evangelical tradition. I was impressed and very much enjoyed the relaxed nature of the service. No gaudy ornaments adorning the building, no fancy robes for the preacher, not really an pomp except for simple flower arrangements around the building. I felt like this was much more the way that Christianity is meant to be celebrated, with humility. I also noticed that as the minister went on preaching in his thick Belfast accent, there was a young girl who couldn't have been more than 2 climbing and playing on the altar steps. I found myself thinking about what would happen if this went on at St. Francis where my family goes to church in Weymouth. Luckily no one swept her away to the "crying room" and she was allowed to play freely and amuse the parishioners, because let's face it, who can pay attention to an entire sermon anyway? I also got to meet David's (the father of my host family) Mother who also attended the service, and we went back to the Mitchell's house for coffee and conversation. Now I say my Easter was diverse because I am pretty sure that I am the only person in Dublin who attended a Presbyterian service in the morning and then headed to my next event of the day.

At about 3pm I gathered at the Garden of Remembrance on the North-side of Dublin. I was surrounded by banners commemorating fallen Volunteers of the cause of Irish freedom. I had arrived at Sinn Fein's Easter Commemoration. Sinn Fein is a very small party in the Republic of Ireland despite being the second largest in the North, this being said I was impressed at the crowd of Dubliners they were able to draw. Every year on Easter, Sinn Fein holds marches and rallies in all 32 counties of Ireland. In the past they have been extremely militant, with salutes by gunfire to fallen comrades and men in balaclavas, and although this one still had elements of the militants tradition of the party such as Ogra Sinn Fein, Sinn Fein's youth wing (which used to be called Fianna Eireann, but that group actually became outlawed as an illegal terrorist group, also seeing kids dressed in berets and combat boots is pretty shocking), and bands and color guards were in abundance celebrating the banners of all four provinces of Ireland.

The ceremonies got kicked off by a member of Ogra Sinn Fein playing and singing a great rendition of "Come out Ye Black and Tans", an anthem of Republicanism, and with that the organized groups began marching down O'Connell Street and towards the center of the city. What I wasn't ready for was what happened next. As the groups began marching everyone that had gathered at the garden to watch began joining in. I decided that my promise to myself at the beginning of my study abroad experience to "say no to nothing" had to be kept and joined in myself. I guess I shouldn't have been surprised that a party whose slogan is "Creating an Ireland of Equals" wouldn't carry out an exclusive parade. We marched down through Parnell Square and O'Connell Street and past the General post Office, where the Easter Proclamation of the Irish Republic was read 94 years ago. People were lined up along the street some cheering, some visibly annoyed.

I began thinking about how 94 years ago people were annoyed by Sinn Fein's actions as well, but at this present time, I think they are proud to live in a free country with national sovereignty and self determination. I think reflection about this aspect of Easter 1916 is essential considering the present state of Ireland and the world. Fianna Fail (a so called Republican party- I'm not buying it), the majority party in the Republic, along with the big banks have and continued to steal from the working people of Ireland. The introduction of NAMA, a a sort of economic recovery plan has caused outrage throughout the nation, but no one is doing anything about it. Sinn Fein is and has always been committed to the working people of the island of Ireland, and wouldn't it be something if members of other parties such as Fianna Gael and Labour, despite their vast differences, joined in the Easter ceremonies in support of Republicanism, that although has a connotation of violence is really just about being representative of the people. I guess after listening to the speakers outside the GPO reading the Proclamtion of the Republic, speeches by Gerry Kelly about his role in the armed struggle and continuing political struggle, and the chanting down of Fianna Fail to "Get off the workers back" I was left a little dismayed about the state of "Irish Freedom", and freedom in any area of the world. Ireland's situation present day reminds me a lot of the founding fathers of the US. I think the politicians in Ireland need to reflect on something as well as the politicians in the US. I think they need to decide if they really are creating nations of democratic representation. The reflection I wish they would make is this: Did we defeat tyranny and oppression, or did we simply overthrow a foreign oppressor in favor of a domestic one? Should bankers that exploited the people of our countries be able to keep fat bonus checks or be punished for their reckless pursuit of currency. I don't feel like I really articulated this last point all that well, but i can sum it up with a quote from James Connolly, a leader of 1916 and one of the founders of Irish trade unions :

"If you remove the English army tomorrow and hoist the green flag over Dublin Castle, unless you set about the organization of the Socialist Republic your efforts would be in vain. England would still rule you. She would rule you through her capitalists, through her landlords, through her financiers, through the whole array of commercial and individualist institutions she has planted in this country and watered with the tears of our mothers and the blood of our martyrs."



A great song about Easter 1916 performed by the Dubliners.





Ogra Sinn Fein


A wreath laid at the GPO, I'm assuming it was put there by "dissident Republicans" unhappy with Sinn Fein's leadership and decision to "administer British rule" by going into government and abandon the armed struggle.


Color Guard


Anti Fianna Fail posters put up by Sinn Fein. The bananas are there because Sinn Fein has coined the term "BaNAMA Republic" for Fianna Falls NAMA plan.


Easter Monday commemoration with the North Inner City Folklore Project, this guy was awesome. His flag says Irish Republican Army Dublin Brigade, he stood their stone faced through the whole ceremony and then began barking out orders as soon as we began my 2nd march of the weekend.


Reading of the Easter Proclamation outside the GPO just like Padraig Pearse did 94 years ago.


Sinn Fein march down O'Connell St.


Terry Fagan, I have written about hi before in my post "Going on a Tour Where no Tourist Goes". He runs the North Inner City Folklore Project and organized their Easter Monday ceremony that focused on Connolly and the Irish Citizen's Army.


Irish immigrant group from Liverpool. Liverpool is home to many Irish immigrants, a few of The Beatles were actually children of Irish immigrants.


Statue of James Connolly. The quote on either side of him reads, "The cause of labour is the cause of Ireland. The cause of Ireland is the cause of labour." The Starry Plough behind him, (known in the US as the Big Dipper) is a symbol of a united Irish Socialist Republic, Connolly said its significance was that Ireland should control its own destiny from the plow to the stars.


Connolly's great grandson speaking on Easter Monday


Color Guard on Easter Monday. Dublin Fire Department sent their Union's color guard to accompany the march.